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Peru

Lima Day Two, Pantanos de Villa

We found a local bird guide in Lima to get us to and guide us around Pantanos de Villa.

Lima is a coastal city with cliffs along much of the coast. To the south of the city there are the Pantanos de Villa Wildlife Refuge, protected wetlands full of many species of shorebirds and huge numbers of birds, and a standard stop for birders. It’s a beautiful area and the city in the area was really interesting to watch as we drove to the site.

On the drive out we talked about birds we’d see in the park yesterday, about things to see in Lima, and how cool we found Peru. She also mentioned that she saw a Guayaquil squirrel near our hotel. They’re not native to Lima, but a population has been established. We spotted one in San Isidro the next day, and though it was camera shy, it was cool seeing a new mammal species.

Our first stop was an area where we could hire a park employee to take us out in a rowboat through the marshes. Paddling kept the boat pretty close to silent while we worked out way through some beautiful wetlands. These wild spaces that are teeming with life have a special feeling about them that’s hard to describe, though it verges on a certain sense of sacredness.

On the flight out I’d read Kenneth Graeme’s Wind in the Willows (a copy with E. H. Shepard’s illustrations). In that book, the meeting of Pan by Mole and Ratty was in the river full of reeds, a space full of verdant life and wonder in nature that is described wonderfully in the book, and here we were in just the kind of wild space fit for a literary nature god.

The boat got us in the middle of an amazing ecosystem, the reeds and water lettuce covered areas were lovely to be in the middle of, and there were a ton of birds.

Yawp!
neotropic cormorant
slate-coloured coot/Andean coot
pied-billed grebe mom with chick
spooked juvenile yellow-billed night heron
Wren-like rushbird
Neotropic cormorant
Pied-billed grebe
Striated heron, (Butorides striatus)
also known as the mangrove heron
the beak coloration’s breakup of the profile is a kind of camouflage illustrated nicely here
Pied-billed grebe
pied-billed grebe

From the marsh we went to the beach.

lots of birds
great grebe
white-tufted grebe
juvenile and adult black-necked stilts
yellow-hooded blackbird!
didn’t expect these
American oystercatcher nest
American oystercatcher calling us away from the nest
We marked her nest with sticks to help protect it
black skimmer!
I thought about it when Anahi said flamingos have evil eyes, and well, yeah, they do
black skimmers
dramatic oystercatchers
white-cheeked pintail
ruddy duck
curlew
oystercatcher
white tufted grebe (?)
Peruvian pelican
Puna ibises in the center with gulls, black skimmers, and some black vultures

The beach was lovely and full of wildlife and full of many new bird species for us. While black skimmers are in the US, we’d never seen them before, and got a nice photo for showing the crazy beak on those things.

black skimmer!

We also got more time with flamingos which was great.

Chilean flamingo

When we were done at Pantanos de Villa we came back to the hotel. We were right next to Parque el Olivar in San Isidro which is a large urban park with a lot of birds and diversity of species. We got there in the eve so the light was fading but we saw some really cool birds.

Vermillion Flycatcher
Long-tailed Mockingbird
Croaking Ground Dove
it was dark, but the P900 got this photo of a red-masked parakeet
white-winged parakeet – another shot where the P900 got a good photo for id that would be impossible with the D500

We heard a lot of parakeets and enjoyed walking around the park. On the walk back to the hotel we stopped into Parroquia Nuestra Señora del Pilar for a minute. Old Catholic churches are fascinating as repositories of art and culture, whatever else you think about them.

From there we ate at a really good Preuvian criollo restaurant (and had amazing lime-ade) and made our way back to the Hyatt.

next: Lima Day Three Parque el Olivar 

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